Dances with Duffel

  Or Circumnavigating Vancouver Island

  Or How I spent my summer vacation

by Ed Moye

Chapter 2: July 27-August 5, 2000

7/27/00

Log entry. A lay day on the hook in Van Donop Islet- it's too windy to risk sailing to Campbell River. Here in the inlet the breezes are light and fitful, but the wind sometimes roars in the trees on the ridge. The weather situation reported 38 knot winds at Cape Mudge. DT

Computer entry. Lacuna is swinging on the hook in Van Donop inlet which is surrounded by forested hills. This deep indentation in Cortes Island provides a snug hole which is completely protected in all directions. We arrived here last night at around 2100 after a great afternoon of sailing. The bad news is that the same storm that gave us sailing yesterday, has us holed up here today.

A couple of hours ago we discussed the rainy state of the weather and decided to head to Campbell River. Kathryn and I would have some privacy in the hotel and Dennis would have some room on Lacuna. As we began stowing gear to make passage, Dennis stuck his head outside and noticed a low moan coming from the high ridges above our anchorage. Down in this inlet there was only the slightest puffs of breeze, but we decided to check the weather radio. The announcer spoke of gale warnings for south east winds in the Straits of Georgia. This was not good news.

Waves build in size the longer the wind has a chance to work on them. It sounded as if the winds in the straits were from the southeast. If you discount the 60 miles of the lower Straits of Georgia, this would still allow the wind 40 miles, past the narrows at Lasqueti Island, to work up monster waves which would then slam into the reefs at Mudge Point. To return to Campbell River we would have to transit Mudge Point, which is notorious for rip tides, heavy storm seas and shipwrecks. In short, this would be no place for a small sail craft like Lacuna today

So here we stay for the day on the hook. Van Donop Inlet is a very secure harbor. The narrow channel penetrates southeast into the interior of Cortes Island for almost 3 Nautical Miles. In the harbor it is deceptively quiet and for the moment it has even stopped raining. It seems as if it has been steadily raining for the last two days, removing all doubt that Lacuna is a small boat for three people and all their gear. However our cramped quarters are a good deal better than the damp gray day just beyond the companionway washboards. The last couple of days we have traded off with Dennis as to who slept on shore in the tent. This morning Cap and I paddled off looking for a place to set up the tent but there really wasn't a good site to do so. After the gale warning put the kibosh on our heading to Campbell River we resigned ourselves to a day of life in the small lane. We settled into the idea of cramped quarters and shuffled our gear and ourselves into satisfactory spaces. We have tied the bow tent over the forehatch to prevent the leaky hatch from enhancing the festivities. At this point Dennis is reading, Kathryn is sleeping, and I am writing. Since we settled into the idea of staying here today the big event of the day was the sharing of a bag of potato chips. I guess it was only a matter of time before we would have a lay over day like this. Once you relax it isn't so bad.

Today all the dunnage is stowed out in the cockpit, the sleeping pads are in place, and Cap is comfortably sleeping up in the same forecastle that proved so dismal just yesterday. Amazing what the removal of a lot of stuff will do to a small space. Comfort definitely improves when you don't have to share it with a mountain of shifting gear. She has adjusted well to our being holed up here today. I think I am much more concerned with her comfort than she is.

7/28/00

1030 Log entry. Pulled anchor and motored away from our secluded cove in Von Donop Inlet. Today we plan to return to Campbell River. The sky is overcast, but there are patches of clearing. The barometer has begun to climb. Today's forecast looks much better than yesterday's gale warnings. I must admit the sleepy stay in Van Donop was enjoyable. Once we settled in for the duration, and got all the gear appropriately stowed, it was pleasant. Despite the rain and close quarters.

1315. Log entry. Under clearing sky we raised the #1 jib and full main. Wind is running at 10 knots and we're making 3.8 knots over ground. Our water speed of 4.5 indicates a contrary current. The day is continually improving.

1700 Log entry. Arrived at Coast Marina. Kathryn has gone off for a shower and Dennis has run for an electric heater. The heater is a telling commentary on the damp nature of the previous 2 days. It is not a commentary on today's voyage however. Today we sailed 4 hours under perfect conditions. Winds varied but never failed. Sunny skies did not mean sweltering heat either! The temp was warm and pleasant. After a brief rise this AM the barometer read steady at 30 inches. Cap got a perfect last day on the voyage. Grand vistas and steady wind under sunny skies. Now a day in Campbell River to replenish supplies purchase new gear, and say good-bye to Kathryn. All in all the visit did not run according to plan, but it did come up positive. Lacuna suffers crowds poorly. But the last 2 days were wet but very eventful. The last week has also been a great time. Kathryn is even talking positively about a wanting a “Bigger Boat”!!!

7/29/00

Computer entry. Kathryn just got on the plane back to Eugene. It was sad to see her go. There was a rough day or two but it was a great visit over all. It was fun to get to share some of this experience with her. She got days of rain and days of sail. She got some paddling and some camping. We spent some nights in a very nice hotel. Last night we had a spectacular view of Desolation Sound from our deluxe 5th floor hotel room. There were days of shopping and museums. Fortunately our last day on board included some good sailing on a warm sunny afternoon. We even had a day to spend in Campbell River before she left. There I bought massages for everybody on board. She left saying she had a good time.

On another topic, Dennis has been looking through the charts and cruising guides while Kathryn and I stayed at the hotel. He has suggested a course through the Discovery Islands. We have more options in this section of the voyage that anywhere else on Vancouver Island. There are dozens of islands and consequently many choices before us. His idea is to take the back route away form the main shipping channel in Discovery Channel and Johnstone Straits. To do so will cross the north end of the Straits of Georgia and then follow Sutil Channel to Calm Channel, which will take us from Cortes Island, around the Rendezvous Islands, and Raza Island. Clam Channel will then take us north past Maurelle and Senora Islands to Big Bay on Stuart Island where we might get a chance to see some tidal rapids close up at max flood stages. Then it is on to Cordero Channel and Chancellor Channel around East and West Thurlow Islands. Finally we will take Wellbore Channel and Sunderland Channel around Hardwick Island to arrive at Johnstone Straits. It kind of appeals to both of us in that it is not the usual way people make the passage through the Discovery Islands. It is not the most direct passage, but it will allow us to bypass the lower end of Johnstone Straits. Over the last weeks the weather radio has been a depressing repetition of gale warnings for Johnstone Straits and the lower end looks to be the worst of it. The cruising guides talk soberly about Race and Current Passages around Helmeken Island in heavy weather. Our plan has always been to err on the side of caution when deciding where and when we go in our little boat. So this sounds like a very prudent plan. This will get us through the Discovery Islands and well down Johnstone Straits, a journey of 70 miles, in mostly protected waters. There are several tidal rapids that we will have to negotiate, but they are fairly predictable, whereas the weather is not. Having wanted to see these rapids for many years I see this as more of an opportunity than a problem. It will also keep us clear of most of the major shipping. It hugs the British Colombian mainland coast where the biggest mountains are, so the views should be fantastic. There are several large fjords that penetrate deeply into the mainland and we are both interested in exploring the area. So it looks like this will be our plan for the next section of our journey.

7/30/00

Computer entry. At Dennis' suggestion we have decided to stay in Campbell River until Monday morning. We have boat work we can do and we hope to be able to return the handheld VHF radio we bought in Anacortes. Dennis talked to a guy at a outdoor shop that carries the same radio and he is willing to give us a replacement. He has to get permission from the Standard Communications office first. They were on the east coast and thus closed when Dennis had the initial conversation with the shop owner. We could use time to get wash done and to stock up on supplies. I also need to replace my binoculars, because the eye piece has come apart and seems beyond repair. So we stay here in Campbell River until Monday. It is nice not to have to be obsessed about keeping a schedule. This could have been a real stress if we didn't have the extra time. As it is it is just an opportunity to see a bit more of Campbell River. We must be on vacation!

On the dock today we met a couple from Wyoming. They were on the tail end of a sea kayaking vacation. They had some depressing news about Orcas. After a couple of weeks of kayaking they had not seen a whale. This included paddling about the Robson Bight area. Since seeing Orcas was one of the major reasons why they made the trip in the first place, they ended up paying to go on a whale watching tour. This proved successful and they were happy about seeing Killer Whales. Probably a wise decision on their part, but not the story Dennis and I wanted to hear.

7/31/00

Computer entry. Today Dennis went back to the shop to check on replacing our radio and was greatly disappointed. The distributor refused to honor the guarantee claming it was issued by the American division of the same company! We can't get a replacement from the American distributor since Canadian Customs takes weeks to allow the radio to pass through the mail. So we just paid a lot of money for a useless piece of baggage that will require delicate handling for the next month or so. Then we can take it back to West Marine to get them to refund our money. The guy in the local store was quite willing to help us but the company wasn't interested. What an impressive guarantee!

Log entry. We spent the last two days at the Coast Marina in Campbell River doing boat work, lounging, and shopping. We took on 32.9 liters of gas at the next marina to the north. (Includes filling a 2.5 gal spare can). I changed the oil in the motor yesterday. DT

1225. Log entry. We pulled away from the fuel dock into a brisk flood current boosting us along at 4-5 knots over our water speed. At one point the GPS read 9.8 knots!!!

The day is cloudy and muggy, but not hot! I've been impressed with how changeable the clouds are. Yesterday we watched mid-level cumulus clouds and virga back lit by the setting sun. Some times the sky will be filled with cirrus clouds that disappear in a couple of hours. We had quite a few fronts pass through. We hear on the weather channel on the VHF that there are frequent gale warnings on the west coast. I hope it settles down before we get there.

We charged the batteries fully at Coast Marina.... The two smaller solar panels are on deck in weak sun. DT

Computer entry. Just before we left Campbell River I went into an art gallery near the dock. There, I was impressed with a painting that hung just inside the entrance. The painting was done on a panel of cedar boards about 2 foot by 4 foot. In the foreground a red, totem art, Thunderbird was hurling lightening from the heavens. The white bolts passed across some realistically rendered purple mountains to strike the blue water below. Moving though the gallery, I then purchased a hammered copper plate for Kathryn and prepared to leave. But not before stopping to admire the Thunderbird one last time. I really was taken by this piece of art. It was to prove prophetic.

Leaving the fuel dock clouds were building to the west over the mountain peaks of Vancouver Island. The shelter of Campbell River was vanishing over the stern as clouds rolled down the slopes and across the lowlands ahead, trailing gray veils of rain below them. As Lacuna passed Mudge Point, entering the Straits of Georgia, these ominous rains headed directly for us. A dark line on the water's surface marked their approach. This dark line was produced as the pounding rain agitated the surface. All the while thunder rumbled ever louder and the interval between the lightning's flash and the thunder's roar kept diminishing. Since it was useless for both of us to remain on deck in a downpour, Dennis went below. Just after he did so, the air made a brief, faint, buzzing sound. Almost immediately following this odd noise was a very bright flash that momentarily lit up the dark waters around us. Out of habit I started counting seconds and managed to reach 3 when a huge explosion ripped through the clouds overhead. It sounded as if it was right on top of me and I thought I could feel the shock wave. This may have been an adrenaline rush however. The rumble continued on for several seconds as it seemed to move over us and then subside in the distance. Acutely aware of the aluminum mast, steel shrouds and every metal fitting in the cockpit, I was greatly excited. My mind raced back to the cedar board painting with it's arcing white bolts. I had been close to lightening before but I'd never heard that buzz before. It really did have the sound of an electrical discharge. It must have been associated with the initiation of the arc which produced the lightening and the thunder. Or maybe it was the sound of Thunderbird's wings cutting the cold air as it swooped low to hurl bolts at the Straits of Georgia.

The deluge churned the flat waters about us with such force that small pillars of water rebounded several inches into the air hurling small droplets back toward the sky. It was as if the ocean was unwilling to accept the violence of the sudden downpour. Then, as if exploding water was not enough, rain turned to sleet and began bouncing off Lacuna's decks as well.

The odd thing was that amidst all this tumult there was no wind at all. All the while we had watched the approach of these ominous clouds, we had anticipated raising sails to run before the wind that must soon follow. Usually there is wind associated with thunderstorms, but not this time. Maybe Thunderbird took that as compensation for allowing me to hear his wing beats.

The storm was quite localized and after a short time I could see an edge to the black water just to the north of us. I turned Lacuna toward that edge and soon the experience was behind us. I am not sure that I want to have any closer encounters with lightening.

1715 Log entry. After five hours of motoring we're anchored at the head of Von Donop Inlet. We bypassed the cove in which we anchored last week in favor of the head so we could go hiking on the trail to Squirrel Cove tomorrow. We went through a tremendous downpour earlier in Sutil Channel. A band of dark ominous clouds approached from Vancouver Island. As they reached us there was a flash of lightning overhead and less than three seconds later the thunder crashed around us. A deluge followed. It lasted about 15 minutes. There was sleet but no wind. Then it passed trailing its opaque skirt of rain behind it as it marched toward the mainland. DT

8/1/00

1340 Log entry. We motored away form the head of Von Donop Inlet. We are having trouble fitting the new towing deck to the Folbot gunnels. Today we could not get the snaps to attach at all. It just doesn't fit any more! I believe the webbing that borders the deck has shrunk. We are now towing Dink with the paddling spray deck in place.

We took a great walk this morning. We paddled to shore where we found a good trail that ran in 2 directions. First it runs up the hill past a pit toilet. It continues on toward the head of Squirrel Cove. The second trail forks off the hill climbing trail below the pit toilet. We walked this trail a couple of miles toward the town of Squirrel Cove and Whale Town. It is a well maintained trail.

Our plan now is to make slack tide at Yuculta Rapids and stay the night at Big Bay. Tomorrow we will hike to Arran Rapids to the northwest of Big Bay.

1815 Log entry. Arrived in Big Bay Marina. Had a real pull against a 6 knot current to get here. Slowly we crawled up the current by ferrying across it. At the marina office the slack time was listed as 1800. So the current was the slack tide?! We spent 30 minutes running at full throttle to make 1/2 mile progress up the current. Now we are tied at a large full service marina for the night. Tomorrow AM max flood current a Arran Rapids is at 0850. We hope to walk there and be back for the ebb slack. Lacuna is by far the smallest boat in the marina. There is a powerboat just down the dock, which has a radio antenna taller than Lacuna's mast!

Computer entry. Our stay at Big Bay has been a mixed bag. I got talking to a guy who worked at the marina and he told me that the trail to Arran Rapids was no longer open to the public. There seems to be a land rush going on. Apparently the area is being developed for rich people to buy second or third or tenth homes. As a result the path to the rapids has been closed to public use. The cruising guides talk about being able to walk to a place where you can stand below the level of the water pouring through the rapids! I have wanted to see such a place ever since I was first told of ocean rapids some 20 years ago. We came here to see this natural wonder only to have some rich guy tell us no. I am sure that some local developer would get rich on the deal, but no other mariner who voyaged here to see this natural wonder would ever again share in the bounty.

The guy at the dock did give me directions to a place where we could see some smaller rapids and so the next morning we followed his directions, which proved to be a bit sketchy. We did get to watch several Bald Eagles fishing in a cove just west of the marina, but our search for the rapids was frustrating. We had almost given up finding the rapids. It seemed that no matter where we went there were either new houses or excavated lots waiting for more rich people to come gobble up. We did however manage to find the rapids just before our time ran out. It was interesting to finally see some ocean rapids up close. There was a good current moving through them. It was a bit frustrating to realize that I had spent 20 years looking forward to seeing such a phenomenon, not to mention all morning trekking around the carnage of rampant real estate development. After all than anticipation, we had about 15 minutes to look it over before we had to leave to catch the tide. So it goes.

The previous night, while talking to the guy at the marina, I found out why our estimate of the current at the rapids we motored through was so off. I forgot to add 1 hour to the time in the charts to compensate for Day Light Savings Time. Apparently the person who posted the slack tide schedule at the marina also made the same mistake. So it goes.

8/2/00

1547 Log entry. We left the fuel dock at Big Bay at 1230 and headed into Gillard Passage. The west end of the passage had some nasty rips and whirlpools, most of which we managed to avoid by staying to the left of center channel. It was much easier passage than yesterdays because Ed discovered that the current tables are in standard time and he didn't correct the data to Daylight Time. That meant that we hit the opposing flood current an hour early!

Another thing that made today's passage easier is that the currents were favoring us at first. We were riding the last of the west flowing ebb

By the time we got to Dent Rapids, the current had turned against us, but we were able to power through and by hugging the Sonora Island shore we were able to make good progress. At 1455 we cruised through Shoal Bay. The dock looked crowded and will probably become even more crowded. So we decided to sail for a while in the building breeze and raised the main and #1 Jib. We beat upwind at 4+ knots, set the first reef, then shook it our again.

After reflecting on how exposed the Shoal Bay dock is we decided to head for Blind Channel Marina in Mayne Passage. DT

1731 Log entry. We are tied up at the Blind Channel Marina, behind another “Aquarius” from Oregon. It is a big, canoe stern sloop. There is a bagpipe playing on shore, the slips are full of boats, and the evening is gorgeous. The people on the powerboat next to us have set up tables and chairs all along the dock - a party is imminent. On our way into the marina we had to deal with some adverse currents coming around the point in Mayne Channel, but the currents gave us a boost as soon as we headed south. We got in about an hour and a half of sailing today - we might have made one nautical mile! DT

Computer entry. We have arrived at Blind Channel Marina, which, after a short look around, I dubbed Little Bavaria. There is moorage for a great number of boats and the place is crowded. Where each finger dock joins the main dock there are displays of public art. Mosaics, assembled of various fragments of pottery, house wares, and boat fittings, are affixed to upright plywood frames. The artwork is a unique display of artistic flair. Each panel has an electric light above it to illuminate the art and the dock. Day and night these mosaics are a pleasing notice that Blind Channel is not your average marina. I was told that these clever creations were the work of Annamarie Richter. It is Annamarie and her husband Edgar who built the marina.

On the bench of land above the water are several buildings. A bath house/ Laundromat is available for those who want for cleanliness. For those who want for supplies there is a store / post office who's north wall is constructed from mortared glass bottles. A couple of small wood frame houses also crowd onto the level ground.

The real masterpiece of the marina is the restaurant, which is a delightful surprise in this area so dominated by Native art and architecture. It speaks of a lifetime in pursuit of a unique vision. There is little conventional about the building. The main dining area is capped with a parallel series of 4 or 5 open beam gable roofs. These produced a saw-toothed profile from the outside and a unique ceiling from within. The gables ends are glass windows, which in turn sit atop a wall of plate glass. Through these windows diners look out across the marina and Mayne Channel to the towering mountains of British Columbia. To the side of the main dining area there is a fair sized oval room. Rising from the center of the pitched, oval ceiling is a cupola, which lets light into the room. The roof is framed and supported by peeled wooden pole rafters. The oval room, with all of its peeled poles, curves, and radius cuts is a meticulous exhibition of tight joinery. My carpenter's eye attentively wandered the room for the duration of the meal without finding a single flaw. Tour de Force woodworking.

For dinner I got a stuffed ham and sausage meal spiced with cloves and cinnamon. It was delicious. There was a continual flow of polkas which, along with the German food, the festive architecture, and the huge alpine vistas, made it easy to picture yourself in Bavaria, rather than British Columbia. As we ate the owners, Annamarie and Edgar, walked around the establishment checking that everyone was having a good time. They moved from table to table, exchanging pleasantries with the patrons through thick German accents. There was a justified pride in their demeanor that completed the picture of a Bavarian alpine Villa. It was as if we took a break from our circumnavigation of Vancouver Island by having a meal in Europe.

After the meal Dennis went for a walk and I went back to Lacuna. I was working on the next day's navigation when the waitress came down to the boat to explain that Dennis' credit card had been refused. She wondered if I could come straighten it out. I thought this opening could provide a closer look at Little Bavaria and agreed to come back to the restaurant with her. As we walked up the dock she explained that she was the Richter's daughter. She modestly accepted my complements on the quality of the marina and seemed to enjoy my interest in the place. But just before we headed up the ramp to the restaurant we ran into Dennis who pulled out his receipt. It was not his credit card that refused the bill, but someone else's all together! Though it got me off the hook for straightening the problem out, it also put an end to my hope of a closer look inside “Little Bavaria”. As Dennis and I walked past the illuminated mosaics on the dock, I was sorry the credit card mistake was cleared up so soon. Despite my usual reflexive shrinking at the sound of polkas, today, I could have used a bit more oom paa paa.

8/3/00

0645 Log entry. Left the dock at “Little Bavaria” or Blind Channel Marina. Wonderful German meal and a delightful European touch. The place was built by the elderly couple who still live there. The food was excellent! Great docks and a friendly place. So now it's on to Green Point Rapids. Our plan is to run Green Point and Whirlpool Rapids today and tie up in Forward Harbor.

Computer Entry. Having some time kill before our passage of Whirlpool Rapids we did a bit of sailing. We launched the spinnaker or maybe I should say it launched us. We have yet to have much opportunity to try out all the rigging we have installed to run this sail. The afternoon brought our shortcomings into clear focus. One of the fittings on the end of the spinnaker pole also decided to come apart, making further attempts to use the sail futile. Hopefully the west coast of Vancouver Island will make up for today's failed attempts. That is, if we can manage to repair the spinnaker pole.

In contrast to the shortcomings of our new spinnaker rig, the new headsail downhaul has proved to be a real asset. Instead of having to go up onto the foredeck to drop the headsail we can now just pull in the downhaul and it gathers the sail down on the deck. It took a couple of tries to figure out how to get the line to run fair but now that is done the rig is very handy. Little by little Lacuna is rising to the challenge of an open ocean run.

1454 Log entry. Anchored in Cove to east of Tuna Point. We are tired from a long day already. Now onto figuring out tomorrow's tides.

Computer entry. We made good time today and decided to run past Forward Harbor to Tuna Point. The cruising guide suggested this would be a better anchorage. Riding on the hook we ate dinner with a wonderful view of Johnstone Straits. Shortly after we arrived a stiff west wind came up. Our anchorage is protected by a rocky peninsula. We ate our meal watching whitecaps roll up the open channel beyond. This is the water we will navigate tomorrow and watching a stiff breeze work on it was interesting. In a northwest wind this is the jackhammer end of a long fetch and the waves on the channel demonstrate how quickly things can change. Our backwater passage may have allowed us to miss the lower end of the Straits but the largest body of open water is just ahead of us.

For the last week we have been monitoring the weather for this area and Gale Warnings are frequent. Johnstone Straits will be the first large body of water since we left the Straits of Georgia. Beyond that is Queen Charlotte Straits, Queen Charlotte Sound, and finally the open Pacific. It just keeps getting bigger. There are still channels along the way that provide sheltered passage, but it is clear that weather will play a much larger roll in our daily routine in the near future.

There are other changes occurring as we move north toward the Pacific. Once we left Big Bay there were no more Madrone trees. These beautiful trees, know in B.C. as Arbutus Trees, have been common since we launched at Anacortes weeks ago. I have always associated these magnificent trees and their sensuous red trunks with cruising northwestern waters. In 1999 we cruised the Gulf Islands for a week and the Madrones were just shedding their bark. My memories of that cruise are rich with the vibrant green color of fresh Madrone bark. According to the cruising guide we are now entering a coastal climate which is too wet for Madrones. More indications of things to come.

While we ate, a sloop sailed into the lee of Tuna Point and dropped anchor. The crew of 3 or 4 people quickly lashed their sails to the deck and disappeared below. It looked as if they worked hard getting here and were tired for the effort. We saw little more of the crew. I suspect their dinner was soon followed by a deep sleep.

8/4/00

0857 Log entry. We weighed anchor and set off west in Johnstone Strait after a rocking and rolling night. Our anchorage was well protected from the 25 knot winds blowing from the northwest in the Strait, but the waves found us nevertheless. Lacuna was acting as if her name were Spanish ("the cradle"), not the Latin.

Today is glassy calm and bright, without a cloud in the sky. DT

1253 Log entry. We beat feet up Johnstone strait, motoring at 5.5 knots with a 1 knot current boost to get to Robson Bight before the wind picked up. The bight is famous as the place where Orcas gather to scratch themselves on the sea bottom. But having never seen Orcas from the decks of Lacuna, we again seem skunked. There are 8 or 9 trawlers in the bight and no whales evident.

As far as I can see in the mists up the strait, there are fish boats with their log wing poles and troll lines out. Altogether I can see almost two score boats trolling eastward along the Vancouver Island shore. DT.

1300 Log entry. The absence of whales and the presence of fish boats didn't prevent the marine reserve warden from motoring up to us in his inflatable to tell us that we were on the border of being too close. We set sail about 20 minutes ago, and we were beating up upwind, so we had just tacked for the mainland shore

The warden said the trollers had a 24 hour season, and it was OK for them to be working the reserve. DT

Computer entry. So today we finally got the chance to see Robson Bight. The place where the resident Orcas actually swim up onto the pebble beaches and massage their bellies. This phenomenon is so unique that the Canadian Government set the entire area aside as an Ecological Reserve. Boats are not allowed anywhere near the famous beaches and researchers come from around the globe to study the Orcas. I once read that over half the Orca sightings in the world come from this area. We have been repeatedly told that this was a must see place. Since we have both been looking forward to seeing an Orca for over a decade without any luck, this looked like the best place to finally change our luck. That is, until we arrived.

When Lacuna approached Robson Bight, from the middle of the Johnstone Straits, we thought we must have made a mistake in our navigation. Between us and the beach was a massive parade of fishing boats. It appeared as if every fishing boat in British Columbia was trolling right next to the beach. Now, all the literature explains that it is illegal for private craft to enter the reserve. But as far as we could see there was a line of fishing boats obviously ignoring the reserve boundaries. We sailed along about a mile off shore baffled by these obvious interlopers.

Then, as if to top off the surprising experience, I noticed a zodiac RIB apparently headed our way. Across the side of the boat was painted the word Ranger . I had read that the park rangers would escort trespassing boats out of reserve waters. Surely this ranger boat intended to chase this vast flotilla of interloping fishing boats from the protected waters. But much to our surprise the Zodiac powered up between Lacuna and the fishing boat parade. Through a French accent, the ranger informed Dennis and I, that we were approaching the reserve boundary and that we would have to leave because we might disturb the whales!! When we questioned what the fishing boats were doing there the ranger explained that they had a dispensation for a brief open season in the reserve. He went on to explain that fishermen had a lot of political clout in the area. What was really surreal was that he held to his assertion that our presence was libel to disturb the whales! As if there was a whale within 5 miles of that mechanized parade of pillage! Even the ranger looked a little frustrated at the absurdity of the situation, but he stuck to his guns that we had to remove our disturbance from the reserve immediately. All the while boat after boat trolled right next to the world famous protected beach. He then hovered at the reserve boundary to see to it that we didn't return to the protected waters on our next tack.

After all that anticipation at seeing an Orca, all we got was a fishing boat show that we could have easily seen in any nearby town with a protected anchorage. There were no Orcas to be seen and Dennis and I are thinking that we are going to pay a commercial whale watching tour company to take us out in the near future to see if they can find some whales. So much for our “whales in the wild” hopes.

1653 Log entry. Tied up in Alert Bay Public Marina. Sailed 2. 5 hours today. Our total mileage is 412.

8/5/00

Computer entry. Lacuna has tied up in Alert Bay having completing the lion's share of our passage through Jonstone Straits. After all the weather forecasts of Gale Force winds in Johnstone Straits we had minimal to benign winds for our passage. At Alert bay there is a large dock complex and we had no problem finding available moorage. There are some interesting boats moored here. Including what looks to be fiberglass copy of a very small 18th century galley named Runaway Girl. Its homeport is listed as Alaska. This boat looks down on its luck with delamaninating plywood and neglect evident. I am sure there must be a good story about this boat.

Dances with Duffel, chapter 3

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